THE RENNAISANCE

The Fashion Split (1450-1500)

In the image above, the woman is wearing a golden-brown colored dress with a long trailing hem. During the Renaissance period, part of what women usually wore are dresses with inflated shoulders and tight high-waist-lines. The dress is made of different materials including fur, and extra fabric pieces that create the overall simple look of the gown. Headwear was also important, and started to become more complicated in this period (1450-1624). The headwear worn by the woman is made of padded roll, split into two parts creating a “split-effect” similar to a clamshell.

The upper portion of this French lady’s dress is open and designed in a small V shape, entirely lined with white fur to provide warmth. The fur-as mentioned previously-represented wealth and luxury, much like the other periods. Almost mid-way on the body, a tight red belt is placed to hold the dress together creating pleats. The rest of the dress is more loosely-fit and runs all the way to the ends of the woman’s feet, with a long trail behind. Some women chose to wear this gown under a silk gornea (over-gown), designed specifically for it, or any other under-gown. Attached to the back of the dress is a streamer, reaching out to the front.

The different traits of this dress were appreciated and re-invented by Ellie Saab.

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From “The Definitive History of Costume and Style”, p80.

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Ellie Saab

This modernized dress is designed by Elie Saab, a Lebanese top fashion designer mainly focused on bridal couture.

The dress expresses the historical Renaissance fashion period, similar to that of the French female’s dress above; in the way the V-neck is shaped, along with the high-waist belt. The model also has a headpiece, which successfully gives off the French-renaissance related emotion one would get while contemplating the origins of this look.

“Contemplating the origins of this look”

The headpiece worn by the model (wearing Elie Saab’s dress) is simple and made of gold. Unlike the renaissance period headpiece, this one is placed from the middle of the model’s head backwards. It emphasizes the forehead and gives space for the hair to be done in many different ways. The whole look’s aesthetic is classic and can easily be put in the Renaissance period of time.

The V neck area is deep and lined with fur at the top, just as the dress worn by the French woman is. However, in this dress, the fur is lined and thick, placed outwards as design rather than inside for the intention of warmth. The sleeves are long and fitted around the arm of the model tightly. The fur and the headpiece together and create an expressive royal quality. It gives the viewer a sense that the female wearing this gown is of high status, wealthy, and elegantly fashionable.

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“Elie Saab Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2015-2016” Vogue Photos, 2016.

https://en.vogue.fr/fashion-shows/shows/defile/fall-winter-2015-2016-paris-elie-saab/14596#show-21